Happy Halloween, Domerberry readers! In this week's Thursday Dive, we're looking at the ultimate spooky-season vacation destination: Salem, Massachusetts. I went on a solo trip to Salem a couple falls ago, and it was one of my all-time most delightful trips.
Thinking of making a pilgrimage to Witch City yourself? This guide will tell you all you need to know, from the best times to visit Salem (hint: not on an October Saturday) and Salem's best witchy shops to where to stay in the city and which sites to see and to skip. Enjoy this Salem travel guide, friends — and let me know when you plan your own trip!
When to Go to Salem
Odds are, if you're interested in going to Salem, you want to go in October. That's when the magic is at its best, and even if it weren't somehow, it just feels right — visiting witchy spooky town at the height of spooky season. The issue with October, of course, is the crowds. More than 1.1 million people (!!) visited Salem last October, and on weekends — especially those closest to Halloween — they're out in droves, packing the streets and making getting around a challenge for anyone unable to glide over the scrum on a broom.
So what's the trick? Go on a weekday. I set my Salem trip for a Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday in mid-October, and it was perfect: full spooky season ambience, but small enough crowds to get into shops without standing in line and walk around town without sardine-can density. Prices come down midweek, too — my Airbnb in the center of town was around $250 a night, pricey but a fraction of what places in town charge during October weekends.
Another tip, of course, is to not go in October at all. People know Salem as a spooky-season destination, but it's a sneakily great place to vacation year-round. It has coastal charm in the summer, picturesque New England snowscapes in the winter, and enviable historic homes to admire all year. Lots of witchy attractions operate year-round too, including several museums and most spooky shops. Salem in October is great, but the rest of the year can buy you largely the same darling town with a fraction of the crowds and the costs.
Things to Do in Salem
- Tour the Witch House. With its black exterior and triple-pointed roof, the Witch House looks like a spooky witch's lair — but in reality, it was the home of Jonathan Corwin, one of the judges who presided over the Salem Witch Trials. (Good reminder of who the bad guys actually were in that debacle.) That ownership makes it one of the last remaining buildings in Salem with a direct tie to the trials, and it's absolutely worth touring to see the centuries-old interiors and the early Salem artifacts inside. Tickets are tricky to get: they're sold same-day only, and you have to log onto the house's website at 8 a.m. and act fast to snag them. If you get tickets, congrats, you get to poke around one of the oldest houses in America (it dates to either 1675 or 1642, depending who's measuring). If you don't, well, still stop by — you won't be able to go in, but you can snap spooky pictures outside.
- Visit the Salem Witch Trials Memorial. Yes, Salem is fun for contemporary, playful witchy reasons, but all that spooky stuff exists because first they tortured and killed 20 people for "witchcraft" that was almost certainly as simple as "being a person that some minister didn't trust." In my opinion, you can't plan a vacation here without stopping and paying your respects. The small but impactful memorial is free to visit and attached to the 1630s-era Burying Point Cemetery downtown.
- Sit for a spell (get it?) on Salem Common. I'm always a proponent of loafing around in the big park of whatever destination you're visiting, but this one is especially good. In October, it's a hub for the city's Haunted Happenings festival, with occasional vendor and artisan booths, entertainment, and food stalls, and year-round, it's surrounded by comically photogenic historic homes (and the school where the Sanderson sisters got locked in the kiln in Hocus Pocus). Sit out there with a book and an apple cider and enjoy your afternoon.
- Take a walk on Chestnut Street. PSA: Salem has SO. MANY. Cute houses. The city is packed with homes dating back to the 1700s and before, and people here take pride in maintaining their curb appeal (and decorating deliciously for Halloween). You can admire enviable historic architecture lots of places, then, but Chestnut Street is the jewel in the crown. The street starts just a block south of the Witch House, so after your tour there, pop over to Chestnut and get ready for some serious property envy.
- Visit the House of the Seven Gables. Literature and history lovers will enjoy this museum, home to Nathaniel Hawthorne's birthplace and the titular, real house that inspired his House of the Seven Gables. A ticket here gets you a guided tour of the Seven Gables house and self-guided audio tour access to the birthplace home and the grounds, which feature stunning gardens, harbor views, and smattering of historic outbuildings. There's nothing particularly witchy about this place (apart from the main home's moody black exteriors), but it's worth checking out if your interests expand past the purely spooky. Another perk is that the museum sits in the waterfront district. From here, it's easy to check out the long, lighthouse-capped Derby Wharf and the Salem Maritime National Historic Park, which is packed with informational plaques about the city's seafaring history and is therefore perfect for freaks like me who watched too much Rick Steves as a child.
- See the sights from Hocus Pocus. If you are a millennial or simply a person of taste, you are probably drawn to Salem because of its connection to Hocus Pocus. Most of the movie was filmed here, and many of its sights and sounds come from real-life places across the city. You can see the Denisons' house here, the mansion where Allison lived, the school, the city hall, and much more — but we'll address the details on that a little later in the blog.
Notes on a few other things: The Peabody Essex Museum seems absolutely worth a visit; the timing just didn't work for me when I was in town. Conversely, the Salem Witch Museum is skippable IMO. The Witch House, the Peabody, and guided walking tours (which I always recommend) can get you accurate and engaging information on Salem's witch history without the sometimes corny stuff the witch museum has (they've got a lot of animatronics and wax figures over there, y'all). Other activities I'd love to try on my next visit include getting a tarot or other supernatural reading of some kind and going on a sunset cruise (a great option for people who've been dragged to Salem by a witchier companion and want to do something that isn't ooky-spooky). One thing you could not pay me to do is wait in the endless line for Blackcraft Coffee. There are so many other places to get drinks and look at spooky stuff. Do not give an hour of your life to this queue.
How to Get Around Salem
Whatever you do, don't bring a car! Cars are lame in the first place — this is a staunchly pro-transit publication — and, more to the point, they're both unnecessary and hard to find parking for in the dense center of Salem.
I'm partial (in Salem as in life) to the train. The MBTA commuter rail system runs almost 30 trains a day to Salem, getting you from Boston to the center of town in just over half an hour. Should you be more of a seafaring type, there's also a ferry connecting the cities several times a day from May through October.
Once you're in town, most attractions are easily walkable. Salem also has Uber, Lyft, and its own city bike program should you need to go somewhere further afield.
Where to Stay in Salem
As I said, I stayed in an Airbnb on my trip, and I loved that for the combo of stellar location and manageable price (here's the link to the place I rented, if you want to just copy me wholesale). Vacation rentals in Salem or neighboring train-served towns like Swampscott and Beverly are my top recommendation for a Salem trip.
If you're more of a hotel person, though, these are the town favorites:
- The Merchant, a boutique hotel with funky, colorful decor set in a teensy historic house (just 11 guestrooms) a couple blocks from busy Essex Street
- The Hotel Salem, a larger (44-room) sister hotel to the Merchant located right on Essex, a moonstone's throw away from Old Town Hall
- Hawthorne Hotel, a property smack-dab on Salem Common that celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2025.
Where to Eat in Salem
- New England Soup Factory. What could be better than a fall trip to Witch City, USA? A fall trip to Witch City, USA, where you also get to sit in a cozy cafe and eat soup. This place offers 10 soups daily from a menu of more than two hundred made-from-scratch recipes, and it's right in the heart of the action — the Bewitched statue in Lappin Park is only a single block away.
- The Lobster Shanty. If you go to coastal New England and don't get seafood from a shack, you and I will simply never understand each other. This is a classic no-frills spot (though it does have tables and waitstaff) with lobster rolls, fried scallops, and every other seafood thing your heart could desire, including a perverse concoction called Nova Scotia poutine that subs in clam chowder for the usual poutine gravy. The Shanty closes from January through April, but it's worth the walk-in-only line to get in the rest of the year.
- Goodnight Fatty. If you're in town on a weekend, stop into this late-night spot for big ol' cookies served in three new flavors every week. The name is terrible. Try it anyway.
- Bella Verona. Most of the finer-dining places in Salem — Settler, Ledger, Bernadette — will be near-impossible to get a reservation for if you're visiting in October. Bella Verona is just under-the-radar enough that you can still snag a seat. (On my Wednesday night visit, I got a table as a walk-in!) This is a classic red-sauce joint specializing in pastas and charming interior ambiance.
- Outside of Salem. There are lovely places to eat in Salem, but ultimately, you're not there for its dining scene. If you're seeing more than just Witch City during your trip, consider going elsewhere for a memorable meal. I'm partial to Woodman's of Essex a bit up the coast (they're a seafood shack open since 1914 that claims to have invented the fried clam), or, in Boston:
- Row 34, a fineish-dining seafood place with a couple trendy locations and an impressive menu of local oysters
- The Barking Crab, a mostly-outdoor waterfront shack I've been visiting and loving for almost 15 years (I like seafood, okay?!)
- Beacon Hill Books & Cafe, for delightful brunch fare, multi-story book shopping, and impeccable Nancy Meyers-y vibes; and
- Mike's Pastry, for cannoli.
Where to Shop in Salem
- HausWitch. My personal favorite witchy shop in Salem, HausWitch looks like the kind of cute, for-the-girlies gift shop you'd find in your favorite local neighborhood — but it pairs the standard candles and home-goods fare with a slightly more supernatural edge. Witch-curious shoppers can find house-made spell kits here (like Co-Habitate "for harmony with roommates"), plus aura reading and occasional events.
- Oak + Moss. For the green witch in your coven, this plant and gift shop is packed with greenery, ceramics, and enticing little treats like plant-based lip balms and botanical chocolates. I can still smell the herby, sprucey scent of this place three years after I last shopped there.
- Wynott's Wands. Want to get in the spirit of your favorite boy-wizard series without supporting the giant corporate franchise of it all? This is the place for you. Wynott's sells wall-to-wall wands in a space that looks like it belongs on Diagon Alley, but the shop is completely independently owned and features hand-carved pieces, some made with local New England wood.
- Spruce Home. A place in Salem where your mom won't be scared even a little bit! This is a sister store and neighbor to Oak + Moss and sells darling kitchen and home goods. My haul here was two copies (one to keep, one to gift) of a guidebook on autumn leaves.
- Peabody Essex Museum Store. There is no better one-stop souvenir shop than a museum store. This one features prints and products inspired by the art of the PEM collection, plus general Witch City keepsakes and a dedicated line of seasonal and home decor modeled on the city's historic homes. Imagine my delight when I was poking around here and found a tiny replica of Alison's house from Hocus Pocus (complete with window pumpkins) to buy and take home as the new centerpiece of my fall decor. Worth stopping in here to snag one!
Where to Find Hocus Pocus Filming Sites
Let's get real: Hocus Pocus is why we are all here. You want to see the filming sites if you're coming to Salem, and I would be remiss as a travel blogger if I didn't tell you where to find them. Here are the deets.
Max Denison's House
- Address: 4 Ocean Ave.
- Get here via: Uber, bike, or 30-min walk from downtown
- Notes: This is a regular house where someone lives, on a regular residential street. Don't be a nightmare.
- Address: 318 Essex St.
- Get here via: Walking
- Notes: Called the Ropes Mansion in real life, this is a famous historic property in Salem owned by the Peabody Essex Museum. During the summer and early fall, you can buy tickets to explore the inside on weekends. The exterior gardens (which are lovely) are typically open to visitors for free.
- Address: 32 Derby Square
- Get here via: Walking
- Notes: You'll probably stumble upon this without even trying as you walk around downtown Salem. There's plenty of space and opportunity for exterior pictures and exploring. If you want to see inside, check the calendar — this is currently a private event space, not a town hall, meaning the public can come in at times, but only during certain events (in 2026 those include the city's Haunted Happenings Halloween festival, which is hosting a food fest in the building during October).
- Address: 86 Essex St.
- Get here via: Walking
- Notes: Max and Allison's fictional high school — where they went to class and trapped the Sanderson Sisters in the art-room kiln — was portrayed by the real Phillips Elementary School, located right on Salem Common (which, side note, was also a filming site for the movie, so this is a twofer). The building isn't open to the public, but it also isn't a school anymore, meaning you can take exterior photos to your heart's content without disrupting anybody's math class.
- Address: 98 West Ave.
- Get here via: Uber, bike, or 35-min walk from downtown
- Notes: The opening scenes of the movie, set in 1690s-era Salem, were filmed in Salem Pioneer Village, a living history museum that's open to the public. Hours and open dates are limited — they typically allow visitors on weekends only, and just from June through November — but it's worth a stop if it fits your schedule. Extra tip: Pioneer Village is just around the corner from Max and Dani's house, so you can check out two film sites here for the price of one Uber.
- Address: The intersection of Pond and Orne Sts., Marblehead, MA
- Get here via: Uber
- Notes: Most of the nighttime cemetery scenes in Hocus Pocus were filmed on a soundstage, but you can visit the real graveyard where Max gets bullied by Ernie and Ice on his way home from school. That scene was filmed in Old Burial Hill, a historic cemetery not in Salem but in neighborhing Marblehead, a 25-minute drive from Salem Common. I wasn't hardcore enough to visit this one on my trip, but if you're a filming-site completist, this is one to check off your list.